#3EIGHTHConversations was started as a little project to celebrate people who dare, and support the brewing communities of the underdogs and everyone else in between. We hope to bring these heartfelt stories of strong, independent individuals who are living out their own beliefs and never backing down in challenging situations. After all, we’re all about people who try, and give themselves an allowance to be.
Entering the 2nd year of our brand, and exploring our identity as a different label from the traditional model of tailoring - we found ourselves connecting with tattoo artist Gillian Toh, 28. Through sharing our moments of creative pursuits with each other, we asked her a million questions and learnt about her journey from apprentice to full-fledged artist.
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Starring Gillian Toh (@gildebeest)
Photos by Sherman Seetho (@mrseetho)
Outfit customized specially by 3EIGHTH for Gillian
Sheryl: On this installment of #3EIGHTHConversations, I wanted to take the liberty to share about my interactions Gillian simply because I’ve had the pleasure of first being her client before getting to know her. It was certainly relatable because of my personal experience with serving clients that have also turned to friends now - and I’m glad to have had this opportunity with her too!
My first encounter with Gillian was one of little words, we were introduced through a friend - and my friend and I had the craziest idea to tattoo a bunch of fries to commemorate our friendship, which could have seemed all too random. But Gillian said yes, and everything about the tattoo was on point for us. My love for her work and very real personality stuck, and I’ve been an avid follower ever since.
For Gillian, who’s into her third year of tattooing now, she has learnt to move past the judgment people have towards the trade and continues to focus on improving her work. She truly appreciates and respects her client’s commitment to having her art on them for a lifetime, and delivers pieces with full attention to detail. It is true that tattooing may seem less taboo these days, considering how it is now celebrated as an expression of oneself, but it is still not laden without the possibility of regret if it isn’t well-thought, placed or done. And that’s where both the challenge and motivation is, as she remains firm in perfecting her craft despite the stereotypes and misconceptions about the tattooing profession.
This time round, we were honoured to be making her first suit - a gradient designed one to fit her personality, no less. We also took some time to speak with her to find out more about her experience and journey through as a tattoo artist, and how that has impacted her life and work.
Gillian getting ready for her appointment and at work
1.How did you get motivated to pursue tattooing?
GILLIAN: Back then, I was pursuing Graphic Design at the school of ADM at NTU (Nanyang Technological University). I started to realize that I truly enjoy making art in a non-commercial capacity, and not having to be stuck in an agency. I loved drawing and was hoping to make something out of fine art but felt like there weren’t many options in Singapore. Then, a good friend of mine gave me an idea some time in my 2nd year to consider tattooing, because it was a way of still doing art and drawing, just on a different canvas. And I thought, “Why not?”.
It was later under the guise of school research that I started to understand more about tattooing and how the trade functioned. I had to write a research paper on a creative industry in Singapore and I thought it would be a good opportunity to find out more since there isn’t much publicly available knowledge on how the tattooing industry functions or accept newcomers. This helped me understand the sacrifices that have to be made, be it financially or time wise and it gave me a framework to plan towards as I completed my degree.
After graduation, I started my first job at a tuition centre teaching English and GP, which is worlds apart from what I do right now hah. Eventually, I saved up enough to quit, compiled my portfolio and applied to several tattoo studios before I found my current mentor, Kelvin who’s also with me here at Tooth & Nail. But teaching definitely taught me some lessons and gave me some cushioning financially when I decided to kick off my apprenticeship.
2. We are sure you did face some backlash for your decision to go into tattooing. How did you overcome that? Was there any point you wanted to give up?
G: Definitely, and the first line of people who flipped out were my family. My Dad actually cried when I got my sleeve and thought I was being stubborn! But what really touched me was that he came around, and told me that I was still his daughter regardless, no matter how many tattoos I had. It wasn’t a quick process, but things have definitely evolved and improved. They’ve also started to see tattooing as an art form or an expression of self now. When I started paying the bills properly, they saw that I really was trying and that the trade isn’t all they hear it to be. During the start of apprenticeship, you don’t have a steady client base or income.
It takes a long period to build a signature style and for people to actually pay attention to your work and want to commission you. I’ve often doubted the possibility of successfully making tattooing my full-time career, and it was awfully trying to make all these sacrifices without ever knowing if I could really make it work. It took me almost 2 years before I felt financially comfortable.
Most people think that tattoo artists have it easy, but in reality, it’s a profession that really takes a lot out of you. Tattooing can be physically and mentally draining, as you constantly draw and prepare your next work. Sometimes, it can be very discouraging to deal with clients who cancel at the last minute resulting in loss of income, or clients who request a million changes or who want a carbon copy of what they’ve seen on the internet without understanding that it’s wrong to steal another artist’s work. Thankfully, now for the most part I get to work with clients who trust me, and I’m glad to be surrounded by great colleagues too, both of which I really appreciate.
Gillian along her workstation at Tooth & Nail wearing our Gradient Print trousers in Straight-leg cut
3. Regarding your own tattoos - did you also feel like people were judging you?
G: People are definitely curious - I get a lot of questions from aunties who want to know if my tattoos are real, if they hurt, how much they cost, and once even how I’d be able to find a husband with all my tattoos. But I also get well-meaning compliments, so people are becoming more open minded.
Initially I did try to make it a point to cover up by wearing long-sleeved shirts in some settings, like when we attend family occasions with relatives. But I think at this point I’ve really learned to embrace the things I enjoy and get past the stares. After all, there’s nothing to be ashamed about. I just do what I need to and get on with my life.
4.In a seemingly male-dominated industry, how do you feel as a female then?
I think ideally I want to be known because people think I do good work, not because I’m a female tattooer. So the goal is to move beyond gender. Right now I think most shops are owned by men, and there are some isolated cases in which that can end up... not being the friendliest environment? But we have more female apprentices and artists coming into the trade than ever, so hopefully in a few years that can translate to more female owned studios. I think we’re heading in the right direction
Gillian wears our Gradient-print suit, custom-made specially for her. Paired together with Platform boots from Dr. Martens.
I think ideally I want to be known because people think I do good work, not because I’m a female tattooer. So the goal is to move beyond gender.
— Gillian on being a female in the tattoo industry
5. Do you have idol that you look up to for your work then?
Not really actually! But I’m constantly looking at other artists’ work, studying pieces and artists whose work I admire and often end up getting angry with myself for not progressing more hahah. It gives me motivation to improve when I compare the differences in technique. And getting tattooed is always a very inspiring and educational experience, because it’s a chance to see how differently every artist works and what you can incorporate into your own process.
6. I’ve noticed that your split head designs are now starting to gain popularity.What inspires you as you design a tattoo?
The split head design was something I was drawing for myself before I even started tattooing, way back in my teens, simply because I like drawing faces but prefer to approach it in a more surrealistic slant. But I think it resonated with clients because it’s a very flexible format that can be adapted to include whatever the client wants inside the head, which is a nice way for clients to express their personal state of mind, what they like or what’s important to them. I’m inspired often by nature or ways to remix imagery in order to create something trippy or surprising.
Gillian’s notable “signature” style of split-head designs
Process wise, I often start off by trying to understand what the client wants - what sort of elements he/she wants on the piece, and then how large it is, and on which part of the body it will be placed. That helps me to decide how I should compose it to flow and how far I can push the details. I do my best to take into account on how the tattoo may age, given the size and intricacy of the lines, or what colours are used. I’d rather the tattoo have longevity than just look good when fresh for Instagram.
7. Do you have any advice to those who're considering their first tattoos, as well as those looking to join the industry?
Tattooing is a profession that requires a lot of commitment and conscience - because if you do it half-assed, your bad artwork could be on the client for a lifetime. Or if you don’t know what you’re doing, you could really hurt someone. It’s not something to get into lightly because the learning curve is steep and it takes years of hard work to get anywhere, with little financial reward in the beginning. And right now the market is really saturated, so the competition to differentiate and market yourself is fierce, and it’s something I’m still learning how to do as well.
For those who are getting tattoos for the first time, I’d say that ideally every tattoo should be a unique occurrence, designed for you alone to bear on your body forever. Find an artist whose portfolio you love, who you can communicate with, so they can understand what you want and trust them to create good work for you. Reference images are a great starting point in communicating what you have in mind. But if you pick an artist whose work resonates with you, you're so much more likely to end up with a beautiful, meaningful tattoo rather than a poor, stilted imitation. Remember that tattoos will age with your body, so ask your artist for advice on what kind of designs will persevere, and prioritise safety over cheapness.
Gillian working on a tattoo piece at Tooth & Nail Tattoos
7. What was the weirdest request you had?
I don’t really remember any weird requests - I respect that clients have their own reasons and ideas. Tattoos can be spontaneous and fun or they can be something more serious, a form of permanent mark making to record something momentous or express your aesthetic.
But a particularly memorable request was this girl who asked to get a set of numbers on her arm. I didn’t ask until the end of the session what it meant to her, and was super shocked to find out that her mom passed on, and those numbers was actually the police case ID. I guess it was a blessing in disguise that I knew only after, else I probably would have felt really stressed during the tattoo. It was a good reminder that even the most routine requests can carry a deeply personal weight, and to approach every tattoo seriously.
8. Other than tattooing, what are you interests? What do you do on off days?
Drawing used to be my hobby. I say used to because it’s what got me started tattooing, but now I tap those creative juices so heavily for work, it’s not really an outlet anymore. I guess doing flash tattoo designs are enjoyable for me now when I get the time and it’s a nice feeling when people want to get them inked.
In my off time I prefer to just shut down for a bit and enjoy my holiday if I get to travel! Japanese onsens though - my real weak spots hahah.
9. How would you describe your sense of style?
I guess I would say my style is super chill and practical. If the clothes are not comfy, I wouldn’t want to wear it. Functionality is really important to me, so I love pockets and wear lots of overalls so I can carry my phone or markers or miscellaneous tools easily. I tend to lean more towards loose, comfortable boyish clothing. But I also love ridiculous prints and colours – I think clothes should be fun and make you happy.
We thank Gillian for her time and being a part of #3EIGHTHConversations. For Gillian’s suit, we started off with two consultations and through some sharing of inspirations and visuals that she liked for us to work on sourcing out for the right print. The result was a super unique merging gradient that brings the whole Jacket and Pants into a set - which we adored and give a visual edge to her already kickass personality. What an honour and opportunity, thank you! x
To check out Gillian’s awesome work or to book in for your very own tattoos, check out her works on Instagram via (@gildebeest) We’re sure you’ll fall in love the way we did too!
